Wet/Dry Plumbing Question

[rgrling]

Hi all! I recently set up a DIY wet/dry and everything is working well so far. However, I have encountered a problem and would really appreciate any advice you guys have:



The drain hose is generating a LOT of noise (basically sounds like someone is flushing the upstairs toilet all the time!) The grey hose is a spare that I had lying around and I'm sure the big loop is causing the water to back up and flow unevenly. If I were to replace the hose, I'm wondering:

• Hard plumbing (PVC) vs. soft plumbing (hose)? What are the benefits/drawbacks of each type?
• With hard plumbing, do I need to use PVC cement on all the connections? If so, how can I lift the lid off the wet/dry bucket to clean the media?
• The drain bulkhead is a 1" hose barb. Obviously it connects well with a hose, but will it connect securely with PVC piping?
• Do I need to install a ball valve?
• Anything else I should consider or be aware of?

Another possibility is to reverse the positions of the bucket and the return pump so that the pump is sitting directly underneath the return bulkhead and the grey hose is stretched out to eliminate the loop. Any thoughts on that?

[tony1928]

When I did mine, I used hard pipe but I think in hindsight, I should have stuck with soft. It's just that much easier to do everything with and creates less noise issues. Are you using any kind of stand pipe for the drain? Google Durso standpipe. There are other types out there too. Also, anytime you have the ability to install a true union ball valve, I would do it. Just gives you alot of flexibility for maintenance if you can just shut off the water. Have you done a power off test to see how much water drains out of your tank? Sorry if you already know this stuff, I'm just rattling things off my head as I wait in line for lunch.

[rgrling]

Thanks for the input, tony. I have read that hard piping can create noise but was not sure how common this is. Anyone else have any noise issues with PVC?

My overflow chamber has a Durso standpipe in it already and is working like a dream. There is no waterfall noise and I can adjust the water level easily. I've done several power-off tests and the water levels are safe (it's a 20g sump on a 92g tank, so there's a lot of room in the sump)

I figured that a ball valve would be a good idea. Are there valves designed specifically for soft plumbing? Or do I DIY with a valve, two screw-in pipe ends, and two hose barbs?

Thanks for helping me out during your lunch break!

[tony1928]

Haha no worries.

You are exactly correct, you don't have to use a true union type, but the true union ball valves allows you to take the whole assembly apart for maintenance. The true unions are nice as alot of them include both a thread and a slip fitting. Just google up pvc true union ball valve and you'll see, there's lots of them. You could just use a regular ball valve and just attach hose barbs. I had mine right under the tank connected to the drain bulkhead. Then had a hose barb on one end to attach to my soft hose.

[Rastapus]

A hard pipe drain versus a soft drain should not have a sound difference. The looping of the hose will cause gurgling for sure, the drain line should be as direct into the filter as possible. I would find another piece of hose or hard pipe it.

[gklaw]

Sorry to say but does not look good. The way the lid sits, any condensation on the lid will find its way to the outside of your container and damage you stand.

If you hard pipe it, you have to make allowance to lift the lid to add water.

Also need to factor in extra capacity when power fail.

[rgrling]

@ Rastapus: Thanks for chiming in, good to know that hard and soft piping are about the same. I was on another forum and saw someone mention "spa flex tubing", which apparently has the rigidity of PVC tubing but also the flexibility of vinyl tubing. I might look into that option.

@ gklaw: Hm, didn't think about condensation. Thankfully, I think I have it covered: my drip plate fits very snugly into the underside of the lid (I actually made the plate with another lid from an identical tub.) So any condensation should be kept within the lid/plate combo and not leak out. Although now that you mention it, I will double check that part of the filter. Also, what did you mean by "factor in extra capacity when power fail"? Are you referring to the water level in the sump?

[gklaw]

With wet-dry when power fail, water from the display tank will free flow into the sump until it reaches you drain level. You sump has to have spare capacity to hold this water. I only mention that as it appears that your wet-dry is just a small box.

And I agree with Grant that the flex pipe does not matter. It actually allows you to lift the lid without. And also get rid of the loop - but now you have to find a end adapter

I also find that it is usually cheaper to look for a used sump on the forum then a DIY. The parts adds up pretty quick. I have one posted FS now

http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/marin...p-%2485-18788/

[Rastapus]

@ Rastapus: Thanks for chiming in, good to know that hard and soft piping are about the same. I was on another forum and saw someone mention "spa flex tubing", which apparently has the rigidity of PVC tubing but also the flexibility of vinyl tubing. I might look into that option.

@ gklaw: Hm, didn't think about condensation. Thankfully, I think I have it covered: my drip plate fits very snugly into the underside of the lid (I actually made the plate with another lid from an identical tub.) So any condensation should be kept within the lid/plate combo and not leak out. Although now that you mention it, I will double check that part of the filter. Also, what did you mean by "factor in extra capacity when power fail"? Are you referring to the water level in the sump?

Flexible Spa tubing is not very flexible at all. Go PVC or flex like you have, just more direct.

[rgrling]

@gklaw: Ahh, I understand what you mean. I have done several power off tests and the water levels are fine. Nice-looking sump you're selling, I'm sure someone will pick it up soon