Sump Piping construction project: PVC and tips

[Captured Moments]

Planning stages of sump construction (Main tank is 135 gal, sump maybe a 90 gal). First time ever.. no previous experience..

any tips or advice you can share?

I heard not to use ABS but use PVC only because ABS leech out chemicals.. true?

What is the best place to get PVC parts? so far I have "Corix Water Products" in Surrey.

Main tank is not drilled and I know drilling is the best way but I am thinking about DIY PVC overflow. I am not using an overflow box because of the possibility of it loosing prime. On monsterfishkeepers, there is a pretty good design on the PVC overflow, kind of like 2 "u" shape put together and it retains prime even for a long time... Yeah or nay?

What is a good size PVC for the overflow side and the return side?

For the return pump I am thinking of "Quiet-One 3000".. maybe the return would be powerful enough to create flow inside the main tank so that I don't have to add a powerhead.

As for the sump design, I have thought of a 3 compartment design using my 90 gal as a sump.
Left: wet/dry filter using rubbermaid file drawers on wheels. Saw a few examples on the internet where they have holes drilled at the bottom of each drawer and you can pull each drawer out for ease of cleaning. Bottom drawer wiould be submerged.
Middle: Return section (heaters, return pump, additional media)
Right: Refugium (Red Claw crayfish). Part of the return from the return pump will be diverted to the refugium (using a T and ball valve) overflowing back into the return section in the middle.
Good design?


Thanks.

[ninez]

Vancouver Irrigation has some PVC/bulkhead stuff.
Greenline is right across from Vancouver Irrigation for fittings.

[gklaw]

ABS pipe is more $ than PVC. more rigid and less forgiving when it comes to fitting. Working time on the gluing is also not forgiving. Turn it too much after glue is on and you will have leaky joint. I also use threaded joint whenever and wherever possible. Cost a few $ more but allow for adjustments in angles and re-configuration without throwing away parts. If you ever decide to shut down the system, most of the parts can still be re-used for future projects.

If you like the 100g acryilc sump below, we can talk

http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/marin...-%24350-19527/

If you take the sump, you can take from a bunch of misc. PVC pipes and stuff that will save you a pile of $ as well. If you go the ABS route, I have a small box of ABS fittings - mostly 4" and some 1.5" and 2". Yes I have everything handy. Have been in construction and the same house for over 20 years

If you don't want the sump, you can let me know what you need. I can see what I can give FF within reason.

I have 3 sumped systems here. You are welcomed to come take a look. Not the best nor by any mean perfect. At least you can see how the plumbing parts fit together and see what I may have that you can use

[Captured Moments]

That's very nice of you gklaw.. Lemme chew on that for a while.

[Gregzz4]

I recently sold my Freshwater gear and started a long research project about overflows as I am going Saltwater. I learned a lot over the last couple of months, so I hope you read my entire post and it's included links

First, you shouldn't try to completely replace your in-tank flow with just a return pump. You may end up with low-flow areas or dead-spots you don't want or didn't plan on.
You could get very involved with a manifold return, with many outputs pointing every which way, but you are also then relying on just one pump for the health of your charges.

The 'U' style overflows work, but rely on a 'lifter' pump to restart when the return pump is powered back on. Relying on the pump to restart when, say, you aren't home, could starve your fishies and beneficial bacteria of oxygen.
You also have to consider the risk of your overflow becoming slowed or blocked and your return pump draining your sump while it is subsequently overflowing your DT

There are DIY PVC pipe setups
My DIY PVC OVERFLOW TUBE

And there are DIY overflow boxes
DIY Overflow Box

Now, about drilling and so on...

Be very careful where you drill your tank as many, or even most, tanks have tempered bottoms and you will destroy it as it can't be drilled. Drilling the back is a great option. I have included for you some links so you can explore your options. I suggest you take your time and absorb all 3 options I linked as they all have their benefits and drawbacks, such as;
noise, placement, tank-to-wall clearance, flooding, and cost.

This first link is cheap and quick
Complete Overflow Kits - Glass-Holes.com dope aquarium stuff

This second link is to what's known as the 'herbie method', and I have provided for you the designer's original post. You can find compressed explanations if you search the web for Herbie Overflow
This method is nearest to fail-safe
NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!! - Reef Central Online Community

And the fail-safe, no flooding ever method...barring your overflow box doesn't leak
BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System

Once you thoroughly read through these, and others you find on the web you should have a better idea what you really want to do.

Take your time planning this as it's a big decision.
Good luck,
Greg

[Gregzz4]

Also, with freshwater tanks, it's good to have your filter receiving it's water from lower in the tank to cut down on detritus building up on the substrate.
I believe overflows were designed for saltwater where you want to 'skim' the surface.
You can make it work, just plan it well.
You will definately like the benefit of having less hardware in your DT, and a big filter.
And if you over-plan it with a large return pump area like I will have, you could even perform water changes without turning off the return pump, keeping your DT full at all times.

[Captured Moments]

... so I hope you read my entire post and it's included links
.....
Greg

Aiyaaaaaahhh! read your post and will follow up with your links when I get a chance. Thanks. More research needed for my crowded brain but I want to play with the big boys/girls.

[mdwflyer]

Also, with freshwater tanks, it's good to have your filter receiving it's water from lower in the tank to cut down on detritus building up on the substrate.
I believe overflows were designed for saltwater where you want to 'skim' the surface.
You can make it work, just plan it well.
You will definately like the benefit of having less hardware in your DT, and a big filter.
And if you over-plan it with a large return pump area like I will have, you could even perform water changes without turning off the return pump, keeping your DT full at all times.

How do you keep it from syphoning in the event of power loss?

[Gregzz4]

How do you keep it from syphoning in the event of power loss?

That's a very good question and thanks for bringing this to light. I see I was not clear with my comment.
I should have separated my thoughts of saltwater overflows and the circulation needs of freshwater.
The point I was trying to make is this;
Captured Moments is wanting to incorporate a sump with a FW system and eliminate powerheads. I am attempting to point out they may not have the best circulation with this setup as overflows are better suited for, in most cases, SW setups. From what I have gleaned from the web, there are no real benefits realised from surface skimming in FW systems.
Plus, many SW setups incorporate closed-loop systems, powerheads and/or wave makers to keep detritus from settling.
So, with that said, and to clarify...
Drawing water from low points in a FW system, IME, is always a better way to achieve both good circulation and filtration.
Having such a setup with any kind of 'overflow' is going to flood, as mdwflyer so politely pointed out.
I should have done a better job of separating my thoughts and thank you for your post as I don't want to lead anyone in the wrong direction

[mdwflyer]

Thanks, it's all about learning.

I went the overflow/sump method. Initially I made a whole bunch of different return nozzles trying to get proper circulation. With 1" pipe coming out of the overflow back to the sump didn't allow the amount of flow I was looking for (a complete redesign of my overflow might have helped, but whatever). Added a powerhead, strategically placed, now all (most) of the poop ends up in the castle.