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DISCUS Emergency

This is a discussion on DISCUS Emergency within the Hospital Section forums, part of the Aquarium Related Chat category; Thanks April , I've got a biowheel attachment for my Magnum so will swap that over . I've got an ...

  1. #31
    Forum Beginner Cstar_BC's Avatar
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    Thanks April , I've got a biowheel attachment for my Magnum so will swap that over . I've got an 80gallon they can go in - and was reading that if I throw some driftwood and decorations and they have some spaces to hide they'll feel more secure .
    Will try out the Aragonite . 18 2"baby discus in an 80gallon should still maintain growth with 2 water changes a week?? Any advice - 90% change in the 20 should equal 2 changes a week in an 80 gallon?

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  3. #32
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    Sure but don't add much driftwood etc or harder to clean Un eaten food. Better bb. Just be sure to vacuum uneaten food and wipe walls as bacteria grows on the glass


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  4. #33
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    Based on the info provided and since the problem occurred suddenly during a water change my first thought would be if any of the parameters were significantly different between the old and new water. A sudden and significant change in temperature, PH or ionized ammonia level could cause shock/poisoning.

    A temperature change of 86F to 84F wouldn't be enough to do it. So based on those numbers I wouldn't suspect this to have been the problem.

    A PH swing of 0.5 or more could be a problem. The PH will drop between water changes, this is normal. The more fish excrement and food waste in the tank the faster the PH will drop. A build up of waste in the substrate (not a problem here) or filter media will expedite the PH drop. This is the main reason that all of my tanks are bare bottom and filtered only with sponge filters that can easily be swapped out daily for clean/dry sponges.

    Another possibility is ammonia poisoning. Ammonia exists in two forms. Ionized ammonia (not toxic) and unionized ammonia (toxic). How much of each type of ammonia is present in our tanks depends on the PH level. At a PH below 7.0 ammonia is mostly present in it's non toxic ionized form. As the PH rises above 7.0 the ammonia will start converting to it's toxic un-ionized form. Based on the PH numbers from the pet store testing (aquarium water 6.8 and tap water 7.6) here is a theory on what may have happened. There was a high level of ammonia present in the aquarium prior to your water change (this is normal in discus fry tanks). The ammonia was primarily in it's non toxic form due to the PH being around 6.8 You removed 90% of the water and began to fill the tank will water from the rubbermaid container at PH 7.6 As a result of the PH in the tank increasing a significant amount of ammonia that was present in the 10% old water remaining in the tank was converted to it's toxic form and poisoned/shocked the discus. If this was the case then the PH increase of 0.8 would also have been an additional shock on the fry.

    My suggestion would be to keep the fry in the 20 gallon tank, change to a sponge filter and remove any other filters. Monitor the PH level closely and change the water prior to the PH dropping by 0.4 In order to limit the PH drop between water changes concentrate on keeping the tank as clean as possible. Small frequent feedings of clean food that the discus will finish completely in 5-10 minutes. Freeze dried black worms and frozen bloodworms are the best foods for this in my experience, live grindal worms and white worms are also excellent. Flakes, pellets and home made beef heart or seafood will have a more negative impact on the water. Continue aging your water and change as close to 100% of the water at each water change as possible. Clean the sponge filter thoroughly each day. Even better is to have a spare sponge for each filter so that you can wash and dry the dirty sponge, rotating a clean/dry one into the tank daily. Wipe down all surfaces inside the tank including airlines, heater etc before each water change. Putting the fry into the 80 gallon tank using the same technique described above would be ok but it becomes a much bigger job for water changes and aging 80G of water is not practical for many hobbyists. On the upside you could probably go longer between water changes on the 80G as the PH would drop slower. Limiting the amount of bacteria growth in the fry tank is also important and this is done through the methods described above of small but frequent feedings, wiping the surfaces and daily cleaning of the sponge filter. Everyone develops their own technique for raising fry that works for them, this method is what I have had good success with and hopefully it can help you.
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  5. #34
    Forum Beginner Cstar_BC's Avatar
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    Thanks Rick .

    I have had to set up a makeshift hospital bed for my one big guy who today has been dark, and having major buoyancy problems .
    Everybody else seems fine - I have stopped feeding the beefheart and am switching from black worm to bloodworm
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