Neven's 33G Reef Tank
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Neven's 33G Reef Tank

This is a discussion on Neven's 33G Reef Tank within the Tank Journals forums, part of the Aquarium Related Chat category; now a 33 G Display again, new pics to come... 33 G Display tank, March 2013 20 G Display tank, ...

  1. #1
    Mr Know It all
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    Default Neven's 33G Reef Tank

    now a 33 G Display again, new pics to come...
    33 G Display tank, March 2013

    20 G Display tank, Feb 2012

    20 G Display tank, Nov 2012

    20 G Display tank, Oct 2012


    33 G Sump, Deep Sand bed w/ live rock rack

    approx total water volume: 55-58 G

    Lighting:
    DiY Homemade fixture, GU10 bulbs custom manufactured
    21 bulbs 3x2W LEDs each (blend of Blue/Pure White/Cool LEDs)

    Equipment:
    Maxijet pro 400 (circulation sump)
    Coralife CP 750 (circulation display tank)
    Rio 1400+ (return pump)
    Prizm Pro 300G HoB Skimmer (on sump)
    150W heater (in sump)

    Plumping:
    1x 3/4" full siphon w/ valve
    2x 3/4" Open channel
    1x 1/2" lockline return

    Fish:
    Ocellaris clown
    clown goby
    purple firefish
    tailspot blenny
    neon blue goby
    lyretail anthias
    six line wrasse

    Corals:
    Neon Green Leather
    Orange Rhodactis Mushroom
    Orange Ricordia
    Green Stripe Mushroom
    Green and Blue Caribbean Bullseye Mushroom
    green star polyps
    white button polyps
    Brown button polyps
    a couple unknown Zoanthids
    Candy Cane
    torch coral
    Anthelia
    Soft Finger Leather (not doing well atm)
    favia
    frogspawn

    macro algae:
    Halimeda
    Red Gracilaria

    Inverts:
    Hawaiian Feather Duster
    Blue Legged Hermits
    Red Legged Hermits
    Cerinth Snails
    stomatella Snails

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    On to the journal:
    I have 3 33G tanks so i allotted 2 of them for my latest endeavor into salt. Right now i have The tanks being water tested after being resealed, so im in the design phases of my Sump, since i can make many components while the tanks are sitting filled in the garage.

    here is revision one on the design, prior to having a couple experts with the specific set up give their opinions:


    The dimensions are not dead set, but i do intend to box in my intake section like that so i can keep it accessible without taking up too much room (ie not full width baffles to close together to get anything done), it still needs to go through 2 baffles prior to getting to the DSB

    The goal in the sump is to maintain a high flow rate (35x to 40x) to keep detritus suspended as much as possible so Processing can be shared with the Display tank, LR in the sump, and the DSB.
    The Egg crate will be on stand offs, i plan on having the Egg crate in 2 sections taking up 2/3s of the space but standoffs available to shift them over for maintenance.

    The DSB will be 5 Inches deep and take up as much surface area as i can spare.

    I have no issues Water changing, so i will be running skimmer-less, as for a refugium, i will add one if nitrates become an issue, but for now i want no light in my sump (well maybe a couple of Red LED bulbs (3x1W) mounted high up in the stand to view the activity of the bed)

    worst case scenerio, i can add a refugium area with the return side within egg crate
    Last edited by neven; 03-29-2013 at 08:45 PM.
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    33G Reef || 20G Chain Loach Tank || 9.8G Twin Tanks || 2.5G Nano Tank
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  3. #2
    Mr Know It all spit.fire's Avatar
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    I'd stay away from powerheads in your sump, you'll so a better alternative to lr in the sump is a bioreactor.
    Having a saltwater tank without corals is like a flower garden with just sticks

  4. #3
    Mr Know It all spit.fire's Avatar
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    Default

    Also you might want to lower water level in the sump by lowering your baffles as the sump has to be able to handle all the runoff from the display in the event of a power outage or pump failure


    What I'm running:
    Basically it's a baffle less 75g with the water lvl at 10", ATo to maintain water level, 3 bio reactors (taking into account my system is over 300g), skimmer, lr rubble for my eel, 2 300w heaters and a phosphate reactor

    Also a 20g cube refugium with mushrooms, a damsel and 9 mangroves

    Dsb is always a good thing IMO but as far as I know it's better to avoid too much flow ie: powerheads, if you don't mind a lot of maintenance you can always throw on a filter sock to remove suspended particles but make sure you wash it in a regular basis
    Having a saltwater tank without corals is like a flower garden with just sticks

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  6. #4
    Super Moderator SeaHorse_Fanatic's Avatar
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    I would recommend having 6" of sand in a rubbermaid container in your sump, that way you can remove it later if you find it is not working properly. If the sand sitting in the sump, it will be a PITA to siphon out in case you change your mind.

    6" I think is the recommended depth.

    I would also skip the powerhead in the sump and have the live rock lower or you'll have no excess capacity for water draining from your display in case of power outage as spitfire explained.

  7. #5
    Mr Know It all
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    The reason for going 5inches is because i read that the depth should be propeortiknal to the tank size. reading into dsbs i found that the recommended is 4 to 6 inches. Going deeper is often employed by those going for a remote dsb which is based on a different concept. so since im pyshing it with surface area still being low, deeper will not help increase fauna.

    The rack i showed higher on the model but i plan on having it much closr to the dsb. The baffles will be lower for sure to handle a powr failure for sure

    As for the powerhead, the reason they recommend dsbs located in the display tank is becauae they require a high flow. My sump without a powerhead will be too low flow and lijely become a nitratw sink.

    Now for the containers, i cand find one in the dimensions i need. To piece together several containers creates more areas for detritus to get trapped


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I896 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
    33G Reef || 20G Chain Loach Tank || 9.8G Twin Tanks || 2.5G Nano Tank
    Neven's Planted Addiction
    Neven's 33G Reef!

  8. #6
    Mr Know It all charles's Avatar
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    Your water level is high. Depends on how big the display tank is and how big the sump is, adjust the high of the water level from there. Normally, no more than 1/2 full in a sump in case of water going back deal to power outage both from intake and outflow.

  9. #7
    Mr Know It all
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    The sukp is complete with only minimal adjustments. The intake has been modied to only take up a corner of the tank and the baffle heights are not all the way to the top eithr about three quarters. Since the sump is the same size of the display tank and il be going almost coast to coast bean animal atyle.overflow i dont think theres much worry over power outtage

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I896 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
    33G Reef || 20G Chain Loach Tank || 9.8G Twin Tanks || 2.5G Nano Tank
    Neven's Planted Addiction
    Neven's 33G Reef!

  10. #8
    Mr Know It all
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    I've been a bit lazy with my projects ever since i scrapped my 29 gallon tank stand, so i figured i'd post an update on this tanks progress and i figured i'd spare you the horrible fat finger tapatalk mistypes. So as i said, the sump was complete, well it almost was, all that was left was to install the racking as mentioned prior. For those who dont read everything because their whole exisistence is based on TLR, THE BAFFLE HEIGHT ISN'T PERMANENT! Once i figure out how much water the returns and overflow will fill the sump in an outtage, i will cut the baffle down with my trusty dremel tool . SO now on to the pictures.


    This is the intake corner i modified from the initial design, it was a hell of a lot easier to install than a box would have been. It was my first time using a rotary tool, so that is where that big line off the square is from, me rushing things...


    and return side, its small i know, but i have no plans for a skimmer since i would much rather water change than dose a half dozen different suppliments.


    and the egg crate shelves. My wife loved stepping on those plastic pieces throughout the living room and bedroom (i got bored of the tv and moved to the PC while making them)


    The supports for the racks. yes i could have just simple did 2 risers on each side of the tank, and used a strip of egg crate, but i found too much movement that way, this way locks in each shelf.


    The shelving side shot :P the height should give sufficient space between sand bed and rack for optimal flow, without risking being too high if i adjust the water level of the compartment. Not only could this house the live rock rubble for filter feeders, i could use this racking for frags.


    full sump shot from above, as said in a previous post, i can use both my return area and the overflow in the Display tank to house macro algae if my parameters show a refugium is needed.


    Im attempting to use a old water bottle that started to leak from the tap spout as an ATO. it will be like the Ice tea jar style ATos, gravity fed, when the water level is at the height of a smaller air line (from the top of the ATO), it will stop the flow of the bigger tube, like a thumb on a straw. I just don't know if the container is rigid enough to work


    So for now what am i doing? Tank stand! becuase this tank and sump are the same dimensions i am forced to oversize the top portion. THis initially got me wanting to use plywood only (3/4 inch). Plywood without any other wood to brace, can be plenty strong enough to hold capacities far larger than my set up, if the joints are done properly. I was really excited to finally do a decent wood working job, since i haven't really. Looked up relentlessly for the best joints to use, settled on a layout, priced the material etc.

    Then the wife says, 'you are doing the stand how i liked right?' she likes the vertical slates skinned around the tank, so using 3/4" plywood, and then skinning with further panelling seemed overkill and more costly, so a rocket style tank stand it is! bring on the 2x4s. I look at the Rocket Template and start fine tuning the design, since its overkill and i know how to make a square cut. I have to add more length and depth to fit the sump underneath (2x4s are wide, why i wanted to stick with plywood). added depth isn't to bad imo, but the length would be annoying, to solve this, i am replacing the 4 of the 2x4s with 1x3s, since his write up says they hold minimal weight and are there for bracing and backing for skinning mostly. Doesn't seem like much, but reducing 1.5 inches around the tank to 3/4 inches means its much easier for me to frame in the tank trim without it being so bulky.

    The plus side to going with a rocket build is i have 2x4s, 2x6s and 2x2s in the garage. Enought for just about one tank stand. I wont be using the 2x6s, but i will be using 2x2s pieces in place of the green studs, since its for keeping the structure square, and a full stuf length makes me need even more stand length. So most of the tank stand pieces are cut in the garage, and tomorrow i make another trip to rona for some lumber. On a side note, i cant believe the screws cost me more than all the lumber i need.

    A lot of pieces i needed for the project i didn't have, so it really added to the cost, but they are tools in the end, so i wont "count it" in my budget :P (dremel bits, countersink, table saw blade, etc)

    One thing i dont know about is what am i going to use for a sealer, i dont want to spend much on it, since i will be skinning the stand anyways colour isn't a big deal, prefer a cheap black if available but clear would suffice.
    jobber and Fish rookie like this.
    33G Reef || 20G Chain Loach Tank || 9.8G Twin Tanks || 2.5G Nano Tank
    Neven's Planted Addiction
    Neven's 33G Reef!

  11. #9
    Mr Know It all
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    so no suggestions on a sealant for the tank stand?
    33G Reef || 20G Chain Loach Tank || 9.8G Twin Tanks || 2.5G Nano Tank
    Neven's Planted Addiction
    Neven's 33G Reef!

  12. #10
    Super Moderator Diztrbd1's Avatar
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    When you refer to sealant, are you referring to something to apply to the unskinned portion of the tank as in the whole inside( and outside under the skin) of the stand? Or a sealant for seams/joints as in resealing a tank? I presume you meat the first reference.

 

 
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