British Columbia Aquarium Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So when it's full you can barely tell, however there is about a quarter inch difference from right to left on the 90 gallon. It's on a lanolium floor, i've got pads I can put under the left side, but that's a lot of work to drain and lift, do you think it would be okay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
So when it's full you can barely tell, however there is about a quarter inch difference from right to left on the 90 gallon. It's on a lanolium floor, i've got pads I can put under the left side, but that's a lot of work to drain and lift, do you think it would be okay?
Depending on how new your tank is, if you fill water right up to the very top, the sillicone at the corner that has a higher level will eventually split over a long period of time(5 to 10 years).

To avoid extra works in levelling your stand, just leave about 1/2" at the top unfilled with water, allowing less constant pressure on the higher end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
But if you leave it down a bit that's when you can tell there is a slant :( oh well. Might try the pads, do a 75 percent water change and lift the sucker up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Hello Matt. You should be able to pry the corner up with a flat havey pry bar and then shim each corner at a time. Done that with full 75 gallons before.

You can borrow mine if you want to come to Coq Centre.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
Hello Matt. You should be able to pry the corner up with a flat havey pry bar and then shim each corner at a time. Done that with full 75 gallons before.

You can borrow mine if you want to come to Coq Centre.
Wow thats a scary thought ...one corner at a time.:eek: looking for a problem doing it that way unless you have a super duty stand ( ie. 2x4's and boxed in with plywood ) The twisting of a partially loaded tank should be avoided at all costs. This puts way to much strain on the bottom and side seal may not blow immediately ( but could ) but will certainly cause unnecessary strain on it.And most likely premature failure of the seams

Depending on how new your tank is, if you fill water right up to the very top, the sillicone at the corner that has a higher level will eventually split over a long period of time(5 to 10 years).

To avoid extra works in levelling your stand, just leave about 1/2" at the top unfilled with water, allowing less constant pressure on the higher end.
Well I agree with the second part ...if it is just out of level don't worry. Put a strip of electrical tape across the bottom of the top trim and your set to go !
The first part I have a hard time with ;)... its not like there is a lot more pressure on the one side ...not like its lifted 2 feet on the one side :confused:
But if you leave it down a bit that's when you can tell there is a slant :( oh well. Might try the pads, do a 75 percent water change and lift the sucker up.
try to lift it evenly on the low end. You could just tape off a section of the top ( this would allow for more evaporation between w/c's ...also good if you have jumpers :D.

When leveling a tank, it is not that important if one side is a tad lower ..could be an inch for all that matter . Wont make a bit of a diff. ( though you would need a wide piece of tape if you wanted to hide the water line ) :D
The most important thing is to get it on an even plane. ( Flat and true ) in your case for example if the side level on the left is even and the other side even ( regardless of height ) then your okay. you can set a tank up where all 4 legs are different lengths( 2-5 inches diff. even ) and as long as there is no twist it would be okay. or you could have it level with in a quarter of an inch and out of plane and blow the bottom out :eek:.
hope that helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Hello Matt. You should be able to pry the corner up with a flat havey pry bar and then shim each corner at a time. Done that with full 75 gallons before.

You can borrow mine if you want to come to Coq Centre.
It may work but, the initial image in my head of a metal pry bar on an 800+LB fish tank scared the hell outta me.
I'm sure it's done gentler than I envisioned but, still was worth noting lol.
I say +10 man points for taking the rugged gitRdun approach though.
I used a sheet of styrofoam 1" thick under my 90, worked like a charm but, thats alot of work, sorry I wasn't more help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
:D It does sounds scary. You can move a lot of big objects with a little leverage if done right. I certainly would not recommend prying under the tank. The stand at the right place will have no problem taking the load. It is of course better to lift the tank empty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When leveling a tank, it is not that important if one side is a tad lower ..could be an inch for all that matter . Wont make a bit of a diff. ( though you would need a wide piece of tape if you wanted to hide the water line ) :D
The most important thing is to get it on an even plane. ( Flat and true ) in your case for example if the side level on the left is even and the other side even ( regardless of height ) then your okay. you can set a tank up where all 4 legs are different lengths( 2-5 inches diff. even ) and as long as there is no twist it would be okay. or you could have it level with in a quarter of an inch and out of plane and blow the bottom out :eek:.
hope that helps.
Alright, I'm either going to do one of two things, do a 80% water change, while it's only 400 pounds I can lift one side myself I"M BEEFYand let the girlfriend put the pads under the one side of the tank.

2nd, going to leave it like Aquaman said, it's not twisted and on a level plane. You put my mind at ease after hearing about the added pressure, I didn't really get it myself.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top