British Columbia Aquarium Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,
I'm researching for the correct adhesive to hold the glass in my insulate tank/pnd I'm making.

I'm thinking of GE #1 silicone but will it hold 3' x 3' of 1/2 glass?

Cure time before turing the box so the glass is on the side?
Photo link:
http://www3.telus.net/mikebike/Blueboxpond.jpg

Thanks for your help
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Risky. You are trying to use it to hold the weight of the glass.

Tyr to research polyurethane adhesive. Weld-On has a range of products. I had a list at one point. Chekc out their web site.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
WOW !! thats quite the container :). GE 1 is what you need to bond glass to glass. But ....well ?
Looks like a ridgid plastic shell filled with Styrofoam,basically.
I would be concerned with 2 or 3 things .

The ability of G/E 1 to stick to the material the container is made of
One made for glass may not work well for plastic and as well one for plastic may not be suitable for glass.Your bonding two unlike materials. Even if you found one it would have to be potable water safe.

There is no horizontal support for the glass . be a lot of weight to hold up considering the weight and surface area that will be bonded.

Speaking of...you have an over lap of only an inch on the sides and 1-1/2 on the top and bottom. My concern would be the pressure of all that water pushing onto the opening of the container ( the edges will be alot Softer causing most or all of the pressure to be on the very edge of the pane of glass,not evenly distributed as in say a plywood tank.

Just my opinion ...maybe some thing to think about.
You may have better luck getting a Plexiglas panel to stick . If you got the bucks it could have a little frame glued on to cover the Styrofoam.And would give make it more ridgid
could you possibly dig out the Styrofoam a bit and fill the opening with a 2 part plastic with a few bits of re bar . Give you a more solid mounting point.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi have sent an email to this company:
BONDiT B-536 and B-536TH datasheet, fast cure, RELTEK provides adhesive, sealants and coatings for dissimilar materials in harsh environments; polyethylene, ...
BONDiT B-536 and B-536TH datasheet, RELTEK adhesives, sealants and coatings for harsh environments.
asking them about toxisity, cure time and strenght.

I have inserted 2" of wood between the walls of the box and have allowed 2" of gluing/overlap surface on my glass measurments.

I worked in a plastic shop and fabricated things with PE but no longer have access to them/the plant.

The 1/2" temperd glass is only $150, Lexan would have been over $300 and I would still be facing dissimilar plastics and toxic adhesives.

No one ever said it would be easy.

My plan it to move the box into the area it will eventualy be plaved and place it on saw horses/supports with the opening down.

apply the glue/adhesive and put the glass on top.
I have 200# of plastic coated Weights #20lbs each to help keep it in close contact.
O will then brace the blass to the opposide side with 2X4's on the face of the galss and the opposite wall with jamb fit 2X4's cut in place.
and a bolt through the long sides on top (after the glass in put in to prevent spreading.

After the glue had cured I will remove the weights and leave the braces in place while I fill it up.
I'm hoping the will work.

I'm also experimenting weith the piece I cut off to cut into strips to secure under the bottom of the glass to support it.
I may also make stainess steel brackets to secure the glass to the PE .

Cheers
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
Hi have sent an email to this company:
BONDiT B-536 and B-536TH datasheet, fast cure, RELTEK provides adhesive, sealants and coatings for dissimilar materials in harsh environments; polyethylene, ...
BONDiT B-536 and B-536TH datasheet, RELTEK adhesives, sealants and coatings for harsh environments.
asking them about toxisity, cure time and strenght.

I have inserted 2" of wood between the walls of the box and have allowed 2" of gluing/overlap surface on my glass measurments.

I worked in a plastic shop and fabricated things with PE but no longer have access to them/the plant.

The 1/2" temperd glass is only $150, Lexan would have been over $300 and I would still be facing dissimilar plastics and toxic adhesives.

No one ever said it would be easy.

My plan it to move the box into the area it will eventualy be plaved and place it on saw horses/supports with the opening down.

apply the glue/adhesive and put the glass on top.
I have 200# of plastic coated Weights #20lbs each to help keep it in close contact.
O will then brace the blass to the opposide side with 2X4's on the face of the galss and the opposite wall with jamb fit 2X4's cut in place.
and a bolt through the long sides on top (after the glass in put in to prevent spreading.

After the glue had cured I will remove the weights and leave the braces in place while I fill it up.
I'm hoping the will work.

I'm also experimenting weith the piece I cut off to cut into strips to secure under the bottom of the glass to support it.
I may also make stainess steel brackets to secure the glass to the PE .

Cheers
Mike
You have the wrong info down then .:confused:..opening stated is 34 wide glass 36 square = 1 inch overlap on sides.....Just sayin :)
I remember years ago making 2 doors for my garage ....nice well built doors hung the on all nice and pretty and then closed them so I could admire the 10 inch gap between them :eek:..just sayin :D.
Looks like you have thought this out quite well :cool:. Good luck with the project, looking forward to seeing how it goes for you.
bill
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,612 Posts
Yup, regular silicone will NOT hold plastics and glass together. Any pressure and the pieces will pull apart.

I've used it on overflow boxes but there's minimal pressure on those.

Black silicone used for building tanks works well for this application. Far, far stronger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
Yup, regular silicone will NOT hold plastics and glass together. Any pressure and the pieces will pull apart.

I've used it on overflow boxes but there's minimal pressure on those.

Black silicone used for building tanks works well for this application. Far, far stronger.
Sorry gotta disagree with the black being way stronger
. From what I have been told ,the only difference in clear sealer and black is ones black and ones clear. Absolutely no difference in the strength . That info from CSL sealants regarding 2 of their aquarium sealants.( # 160 for retail outlets ...in 3 colors and the # 156 ? sold to aquarium manufacturers the later being a better product but unavailable for retail ..also came in 3 colors and no diff. between them .
I questioned them about it as I was allways under the impression that the black was stronger. The reason black is used is more for looks / hiding the algae and them nasty little imperfections on the jionts when looking at the seam on the from and back glass .
I have yet to see a manufacturer advertise that. Also if that were the case then every one would be using it .
There is a big diff. in the manufactureers ...I used to use GE 1 till I tried CSL 160 I personally think CSL dried faster with less of that greasy feeling when partialy cured.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
453 Posts
Had a quick look at the datasheet for CSL 160 and I don't think it will work very well for plastics. Its tensile strength is also 175psi whereas the SCS 1200 is specifically designed for glass AND plastics and has a tensile strength of 480 psi.

It seems CSL 160 (and GE I for that matter) is marketed as a "sealant" whereas SCS 1200 is an "adhesive". That, in itself, should tell you which one will last longer and remain stronger in a bond.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,612 Posts
There's a special black silicone used by tank manufacturers that is supposed to be stronger. It is quite expensive and not simply the black version of clear silicone.

This is the stuff they use for making trimless tanks. Was told about this stuff by a guy in the business (glass) and when I tried cutting it, this special black silicone was far tougher than the clear stuff.

Could be wrong, but it is based on my experience with it and what the glass guy told.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
Where can I get the CSL 160?

Thanks Mike
I got mine from northren building supply cost was 6.29 a tube.
There's a special black silicone used by tank manufacturers that is supposed to be stronger. It is quite expensive and not simply the black version of clear silicone.
This is the stuff they use for making trimless tanks. Was told about this stuff by a guy in the business (glass) and when I tried cutting it, this special black silicone was far tougher than the clear stuff.

Could be wrong, but it is based on my experience with it and what the glass guy told.
I recal the CSL guy saying something about that as well, regarding their other one....some things just are not made for retail use.
But then again its ones personal opinion of what is stronger in some cases ....for example http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/aqua-lounge-7/400-gallon-tank-6042/.. last line post 4 :D...
.... LMAO .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
617 Posts
I don't know of any adhesive that adheres to polyethylene. It's one plastic that they use a form of plastic "welding" to repair, actually use hot air and poly filler rod to join polyethylene parts.
Silicone will stick to polycarbonates, and acrylic (plexiglas) . There are solvent glues that are used for acrylic assembly and repair.
If you need glue for acrylic rather than polyethylene, I would choose the solvent glue first, and silicone as a second choice , but forget trying to glue polyethylene
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top