LF: Will pay for custom LED

Thanks Otter,
I actually did not design my LED system using PAR. I measured using a light meter and found that the LEDs I am using are about 2.5~3 times more intense (W/m^2) than fluorescent tubes per watt of energy consumed, so I assumed WPG using that data.

I would say $120 bucks will get you the parts for a decent system, but as for automation (auto dimming), you are looking at between $100 to $200 depending on the power supply, controller, heatsinks, etc... like ron99 said.

For my just started reef tank, I used a bunch of SMD white LEDs, 12 blue 3W LEDs, a couple resistors and computer heatsinks powered by 24V power supply. It is doing roughly 5 WPG on a 38G tank. Although it's manually controlled, I spent about $150 already. Still working on the automation... Let me know if this is something that you want.

blue_eden said:

Thanks Otter,
I actually did not design my LED system using PAR. I measured using a light meter and found that the LEDs I am using are about 2.5~3 times more intense (W/m^2) than fluorescent tubes per watt of energy consumed, so I assumed WPG using that data.

I would say $120 bucks will get you the parts for a decent system, but as for automation (auto dimming), you are looking at between $100 to $200 depending on the power supply, controller, heatsinks, etc... like ron99 said.

For my just started reef tank, I used a bunch of SMD white LEDs, 12 blue 3W LEDs, a couple resistors and computer heatsinks powered by 24V power supply. It is doing roughly 5 WPG on a 38G tank. Although it's manually controlled, I spent about $150 already. Still working on the automation... Let me know if this is something that you want.

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A light meter may give you some approximation of output but it won't tell the whole story. A 3W blue LED has much lower lumen output than a 3W white LED but puts out about the same amount of PAR. To really test and compare light systems you need to use a PAR meter. Only your blue 3W emitters will put out significant PAR. The SMD LEDS do not produce much PAR and will not support corals very well. So to build something for a reef tank that will support a range of corals you need high power LEDS. You might get away with 1W emitters on a small tank with soft corals only. If you want anything that needs more light or have a deeper tank you will need 3W emitters all around. I use six 3W Crees on my 2.5 gallon pico and underdrive them at around 1W (350mA) as they will put out more PAR at 1W than actual 1W LEDs.

So for a 5.5 gallon I would suggest 10 to 12 LEDs at $6 to $7 each. Adhesive pads for the LEDs at $5 or $6 (about $0.50 each). Two buckpucks with manual dimming at about $20 each. A heatsink of two for that size tank will be $40 to $50. A 24V 2.7 amp power supply $40+. A fan or two for another $10 to $20 and then you will need wire, connectors, maybe some aluminum or acrylic for a bracket and other misc. bits and pieces. That doesn't include shipping costs for the LEDs, drivers and adhesive pads as you won' find them locally. So realistically you are looking at over $200 without a computerized controller and $300+ with. Not trying to be negative to the idea of LEDs; both my tanks are lit with them. Just want you to go in knowing what you are needing and what it will cost.

fraggalrock said:

Go to Lees Electronics on Main street,

They can build it for you or you can do it yourself super cheap. I put moon lights LEDs in my shrimp tanks and my 90 gallon reef for all aunder 20 dollers

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Lees's does have some stuff you can use for the build but they won't have the right LEDs and drivers. Do NOT buy the generic chinese LEDs. They have less than half the PAR that the Crees put out by my testing (A single Cree LED put out 130 PAR at 4 inches distance and a single generic one put out 47 PAR using the same driver and at the same distance)