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Here is a pdf from Philips lighting briefly explaining PPF, micromol,

http://www.search.philips.com/searc...ltural/pdf/philips_growing_your_profit_nl.pdf

These bulbs are for greenhouse use and not so much for aquariums. They do have ceramic metal halide which works great for fresh water planted aquarium.

Philips also have LED grow lights, but I haven't gotten a reply if they are only in the UK or if they are globally available.

Just found this. Here is a more renowned greenhouse light company slide show done back in 2008 (without the commentary). They do have diagrams on LED and a comparison between the different color LEDs wavelength and micromol. Will have to do a bit more information gathering as the speaker claimed that micromol alone is not a good analysis for light efficiency. Something to do with Efficiency lichtsource (lm/W)

http://www.canadiangreenhouseconference.com/talks/2008/2008-TK-Napper-PLLight.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
I have 2 new tanks i needed to figure out what sort of lighting to go for. Because im stuck with a fixed distance to mount the lights, i wanted to choose the best light source for the distance above the substrate. As always when im faced with light questions i resort to the Par Vs Distance charts on planted tank

PAR vs Distance, T5, T12, PC - New Chart

This time however i noticed they had a new chart for t5ho reflector qualities with pictures to demonstrate what is each quality. This is a very important piece of information i figured people should know, as it demonstrates the vast difference of output a reflector can boost the fixture. Plus it helps us dial in our target PAR range even more.

For me i have 18ish inches above the substrate, so correlating from the t5ho graph, a single strip of t5ho fair reflector quality should do it for me. J & L has cheap t5ho's with built in reflectors that look similar to their example of a fair fixture, so now i can make my purchase without having to worry about my light causing algae issues.

Prior to the t5ho reflector graph, the result would have been that i'd be using a PC fixture or 2xt8 fixture. The Fixture would be bulkier most likely, and i'd be forced to buy more variety of bulbs whereas i have t5hos already :p

The same author of the thread also wrote the article (different format) here: http://www.aquabotanic.com/?p=1484

and another good read:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/118454-light-height-above-tank.html
 

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Hey Rob:

Surprise you done have a millivoltmeter in your family :)

I have a decent multimeter. You you can get the parts, I will pay for them and we can make one. I probably have a couple of alligator clips kicking around as well. Want a weekend get together project.

I am not a hi-tech guy when it comes to planted tanks. But for the fun of it - why not. Not sure about renting it out to just anyone on the forum though - sure for some. Blow the meter and I am $200 out of luck and no toy to play with when I want to be a ******* electrician. Cannot blame anyone on high deposit on sensitive electronic equipments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Of course i have a multimeter, i'd make a pretty crappy electrician if i didn't, lol.

As for the par probe, it would be handy having in the community especially when it comes to testing the new LED fixtures, but for planted tanks with other fixtures, the graphs really do a great job and they eliminate a lot of issues the watts per gallon had. I've used their Twister CFL chart before (PAR Data-Spiral Power Saver Bulbs, lighting question - Page 2) as well as their t5ho and i've found after that i had to make very little adjustments to eliminate BBA growth compared to when i just guessed what i needed and scratched my head in wonder at the black fur overtaking every plant and piece of wood in the tank
 

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Hrm...I'd love to test the PAR of the 20W Prime LED Emitters I have sitting here at a variety of depths. So is there one floating around on the BCA forum somewhere? I'm trying to figure out whether I should get a mixture of Cool, Neutral and Warm White LEDs or just be lazy and run the Cool White (6700K) ones.

Thanks!
verkion
 

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How can I determine my par? I have 2 LED fixtures on my 65 gal planted tank. One is dim-able and the other is not. The are both 36 ins long with several colors and are around 20 watts each.
Every forum I read, they use T8, T12 etc. But I can't find anything on Par LED lighting
Could anyone please help me.
Thanks
 

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How can I determine my par? I have 2 LED fixtures on my 65 gal planted tank. One is dim-able and the other is not. The are both 36 ins long with several colors and are around 20 watts each.
Every forum I read, they use T8, T12 etc. But I can't find anything on Par LED lighting
Could anyone please help me.
Thanks
All fixtures, LEDs ones especially vary in PAR so the only way to know is to use a PAR reading meter. You can buy these online (kinda expensive) or perhaps you can borrow one from someone local. I would check your local forums, facebook pages, near by hobbyist, etc.
 

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Single warm/cool white LED should never consider to be efficient enough to grow plants in any shape of form. Just because it looks the same as a CFL or normal T5 and has the indicated color temperature, LED actually peak at a very narrow spectrum. That is another reason why majority of the grow light out there is red and blue instead of white only because the White LED itself doesn't contain enough of either spectrum to promote the good growth of the plants. The only reason why most of people don't run the "perfect" growth LED on aquarium is because it is dame ugly to look at, the purpose of our aquarium are mostly for viewing (except for a few people that growing plants only for business purposes) , so the perfect way is having majority of the white and supplement additional spectrum with red or/and blue LEDs.

PS: When I say LED can't compare to CFL or T5, doesn't mean that are not as good. For those that know me, they know that I am a big LED supporter. T5 and CFL will lose the full spectrum eventually where as LED doesn't deteriorating in that way. when it goes, it burns out entirely but that will take at least 3 to 5 years to happen. The worse case situation for LED is that for Blue LED, (contains small amnt of UV spectrum) will cause the optic of the LED diodes turn brown/black before it burns out. this is mainly due to the nature of the UV spectrum (anything below 450nm)
 
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