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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, guy, I wanto to have a 2nd shrimp attempt. This time I will make a shrimp only tank. Please give me some advice.

The following is the details of my first try.
40 red cherry shrimps all gone in 5 months. Every 1or 2 week, I lost 1 or 2. However, 4 amano shrimps, 3 ottos, 8 neons stay healthy and strong. I just don't have clue.

20 gallon long tank, heavily planted with tropica soil and fully cycled. Diy co2
Water parameter always looks fine.
Ammonia 0
PH 6.8
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
I use API stress coat+ while doing the weekly water change (20%)

Today, I tested gh, kh. Both 1. Looks like the water is very soft. Will this be the cause?

Please help me make this time right. Thanks.
 

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There are shrimp experts here, but I will jump in.

Is there any chance that the other fish and the Amanos were getting all the food? The Amanos might be a little more aggressive or successful. Shrimp, ottos and neons should make good tankmates, though.

I used to have success with plants and cherries by adding a bit of Seachem Equilibrium. Cherries need a higher gh.

Perhaps you could try just five or six new shrimp and watch them for a month. Maybe your tank is more cycled now. I'm not familiar with API Stress Coat. You might check to see whether there is chloramine in your water... I heard that there is in Delta. I'm not sure how Stress Coat is with that. You could give Prime a try. Also, check that you are not adding copper in your fertilizer. If your water is very soft and looks green in the bathtub, it might be high in copper from the pipes. In that case, you might avoid using water from the hot tap. Just a thought (we had green water here for a couple of years before Vancouver switched treatment methods).

You may never figure out what happened to your shrimp, but the next ones could be fine. Maybe you could get some that have been locally bred. Good luck!

Edited to add: just noticed that you used Tropica soil. Is there any chance that that substrate leached ammonia for a while? I am not familiar with it. You should be okay now.
 

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I use fluval stratum or Ada soil.Not sure if tropica soil.buffers ph.I do not use co2 or add anything to the water.
 
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GH of 1 is extremely low. Shrimp would have trouble producing an adequate shell after moulting. Would fit with a couple deaths every couple of weeks, too.

Going for a shrimp only tank is a very good idea. Start with 10 and see how you go. Also, a shrimp only tank won't need a ton of water changes. Best to do small monthly water changes and maintain consistent parameters, in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
GH of 1 is extremely low. Shrimp would have trouble producing an adequate shell after moulting. Would fit with a couple deaths every couple of weeks, too.

Going for a shrimp only tank is a very good idea. Start with 10 and see how you go. Also, a shrimp only tank won't need a ton of water changes. Best to do small monthly water changes and maintain consistent parameters, in my opinion.
I am planning to get some crushed coral to increase gh. What is the proper gh for shrimp?
 

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You can use Nutrifin chiclid conditioner.You can get it at Main Aquarium.
 

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For cherries you probably want gh at at least 5. KH at around 2. Remineralize with something like seachem equilibrium would be my advice.
 

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I use Seachem Equilibrium for gH and Seachem Alkaline Buffer for raising Kh/buffer against pH swings.
 

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I think it depends on a case by case basis. For the answers below, I'm using the API water testing kits. I've asked Aquariums West what their GH was (they tested their water for me) and it was 5 at the time for their shrimp tanks. I've seen online and people have had them higher at 11-12 and it seems like this varies/depends on the individual with no right answer. However, the first issue you might want to address is probably the hardness - I think 2 is too low. At first I had my GH at 11-12, but the problem with that was that I used seachem equilibrium and it jacked up my PH like crazy (it was 8-8.4PH) - which killed a couple of my shrimp and fish. Our tap water is 6.5 PH and becomes 7.2-7.4ish when you add enough equilibrium to get 4-6 GH. With these parameters, I have no shrimp deaths for the past 2 months and my fire-red/red cherry shrimps are actually thriving/reproducing.

I recently bought some CRS from Pat @ CanadianAquatics and I asked him to test his water for me to help compare and gave me some water samples (and I got some of his mineral additives, forgot the brand). I tested his water and it was 8GH. I acclimated the CRS with water at 5GH, 7.2PH and slowly removed/added water until it was 8 gh and 7-7.2 PH over a week (mineral additive did not spike my PH). That being said, it's been 3 weeks or so now and I've had 0 deaths (knock on wood). Hope this helps!

**//Edit: Most importantly from what I learned from others is that it's best to be consistent and not to change water parameters too drastically.
 

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Agree with Dou. Also, Pat and Charles sell (or used to sell) a little white rock-like thing you could put in your shrimp tank that would release minerals into the water that the shrimp need for moulting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thank you guys, Looks it is the GH problem. Last night, I put a cup of curshed coral into my 20 long. Hope this will bring the GH up after few days. If this doesn't work, I will go get some equilibrium.

My tank is empty now, so I can do whatever test I like. :lol:
 

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If you only want to raise GH without raise KH. (Raise KH will effect your PH), you can use Salty Shrimp GH+ (again sold by Pat of Canadian Aquatics.), or Seachem replenish. You should have higher KH if you are running Pressured CO2 to prevent pH swing. Pat also sell White Pellet which is shrimp food that contain calcium and mineral supplement which is another options if you think molting is the problem.

By any chance you dose Seachem flourish excel? I had random shrimp dead problem like you had and I was dosing flourish excel and once I stopped the flourish excel, shrimp breeding takes off. I also know some people don't have issue with flourish excel, it is up to you to eliminate anything may cause the shrimp death one by one.

I do believe you will also need to consider TDS. Cherry Shrimp can tolerate high TDS. (Up to 300 I believe), which is why people suggest RO water for Crystal shrimp because TDS for crystal shrimp is about 120.
 

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If you only want to raise GH without raise KH. (Raise KH will effect your PH), you can use Salty Shrimp GH+ (again sold by Pat of Canadian Aquatics.), or Seachem replenish. You should have higher KH if you are running Pressured CO2 to prevent pH swing. Pat also sell White Pellet which is shrimp food that contain calcium and mineral supplement which is another options if you think molting is the problem.

By any chance you dose Seachem flourish excel? I had random shrimp dead problem like you had and I was dosing flourish excel and once I stopped the flourish excel, shrimp breeding takes off. I also know some people don't have issue with flourish excel, it is up to you to eliminate anything may cause the shrimp death one by one.

I do believe you will also need to consider TDS. Cherry Shrimp can tolerate high TDS. (Up to 300 I believe), which is why people suggest RO water for Crystal shrimp because TDS for crystal shrimp is about 120.
Ahhh, that makes sense why my PH spiked up so much. I think that's what I did buy from Pat (the Salty Shrimp GH+). I dose excel and have had no problems so far with my RedCherries. Time will tell for the CrystalReds. Edit// Also thanks for the note on the KH! Really helpful in case for future reference.
 

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Thank you guys, Looks it is the GH problem. Last night, I put a cup of curshed coral into my 20 long. Hope this will bring the GH up after few days. If this doesn't work, I will go get some equilibrium.

My tank is empty now, so I can do whatever test I like. :lol:
Crushed coral best placed in a small mesh bag and inside the filter. If you just let it sit in the tank on top of gravel, it won't do much as it will takes forever for crushed coral to dissolve.

One cup of crushed coral is also way too much, you will end up bump up KH too much and end up at very high PH. Start with 1 tea spoon and monitor pH, GH and KH before add more. Even if you place the crushed coral in the filter, it may takes a day or 2 for crushed coral start to effect the water. You will need to monitor the water often.

I still say Salty shrimp GH+ from Pat is best options. 1000g Salty Shrimp GH is 55 dollars while I remember seachem equilibrium is kind expensive.
 

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Ahhh, that makes sense why my PH spiked up so much. I think that's what I did buy from Pat (the Salty Shrimp GH+). I dose excel and have had no problems so far with my RedCherries. Time will tell for the CrystalReds. Edit// Also thanks for the note on the KH! Really helpful in case for future reference.
Actually there are 2 type of Salty Shrimp. One is Salty shrimp GH+ (1000g 55 dollars or 230g 28 dollars.)and another is Salty Shrimp GH/KH+. (800g 55dollars or 200g 28 dollars.)If you bought the salty shrimp gH+ only, it shouldn't effect your kH at all.
 

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Actually there are 2 type of Salty Shrimp. One is Salty shrimp GH+ (1000g 55 dollars or 230g 28 dollars.)and another is Salty Shrimp GH/KH+. (800g 55dollars or 200g 28 dollars.)If you bought the salty shrimp gH+ only, it shouldn't effect your kH at all.
Sorry I meant it spiked up from when I used Seachem Equilibrium. General concensus though it seems is to test and take it slow!
 

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Sorry I meant it spiked up from when I used Seachem Equilibrium. General concensus though it seems is to test and take it slow!
I see. I never used Seachem Equilibrium so I have no idea if that effected pH and KH. I only used seachem replenish which has no effect on kH/pH. Since I have to switch Salty Shrimp gH/KH. (burnaby condo water seem slightly acid and low on kH anyway.)

This hobby is like science, require you pay attention to all the chemistry stuff. lol
 
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