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Discussion Starter #1
Tap water conditions in the lower mainland are extremely soft. This condition can actually kill some aquarium fish if left unadjusted. It is a very uncommon problem as most cities increase the mineral content of the tap water to prevent corrosion of piping etc. In North America, to my knowledge, Seattle and BC are the only places where this is a problem.
The hardness in the lower mainland is practically zero. This is similar to the conditions of rain water. Although wild fish are exposed to a similar condition, they are only exposed during the rainy season, and this condition induces spawning. The majority of aquarium fish are raised in hard water conditions. Many species of fish will breakdown in our water and contract various illnesses. Treatment with medication rarely improves this condition because it is the lack of minerals that are the initial cause of the sickness.
Fish absorb the minerals and balance the fluid in their tissues. A process called osmoregulation. Fish with poor osmoregulation can be subject to dropsy, a condition where the body fills with fluids and is very hard to cure. As mentioned it can also cause a number of other disease.
This problem is easy to fix using products such as Replenish and Alkaline buffer. Correcting this will also stabilize pH and improve the overall health of the aquarium.
Many hobbyists in BC use crushed coral to improve and stabilize the pH. Unfortunately hardness is the bigger issue here and the coral does very little in the way of hardness adjustment. Coral only dissolves in an acidic environment and once the coral increases the pH, no more dissolving. Virtually all our customers who have made these corrections have noticed a marked improvement in the health and color of their fish as well as a drastic improvement in mortality of their new fish.
Thanks for reading.:D
 

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i made a point of this as well on the old bca , i could even smell chemicals coming out of the bloody tap [email protected]! , so to combat this problem , i just do smaller water changes , more often , instead of the regular 35/40 % every week !! seemed to help .

i also add more conditioner to remove the chemicals , but not to much ..

but all hobbyists need to be more aware for sure ,

thanks grant [email protected]!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In some ways yes, others no. Any crustacean requires calcium for growth, our water does not have any. That is a problem. Maybe you are adding a supplement that makes up for that.
With a lack of Calcium, crustaceans are prone to attack from fish due to the soft carapace. Many shrimp keepers dont have fish with them so this is not as much an issue.
 

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In some ways yes, others no. Any crustacean requires calcium for growth, our water does not have any. That is a problem. Maybe you are adding a supplement that makes up for that.
With a lack of Calcium, crustaceans are prone to attack from fish due to the soft carapace. Many shrimp keepers dont have fish with them so this is not as much an issue.
True, yes i/we do add supplement in the water which raise our GH to about 4-6.
 

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=) My fish are doing BETTER THAN EVER, I found this out 2 weeks ago from your Richmond Staff IAN, that's why i use Alkaline buffer every water change =) TYTY to YOUR staff (IAN)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not Ian. He has not been with the company since November. Maybe Rick? Garner? Regardless glad to hear!
 

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Hey Grant, good topic and a question about RO/DI filters. I was looking for a way to counter the added soda ash (sodium carbonate)/lime (calcium hydroxide) that MV ups our PH with. Can you run a DI unit by itself, would it work to reduce PH?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, RO/DI would remove the minor minerals and reduce pH. Why do you want to reduce it? RO/DI usually ends up yielding a pH of 5 or so.
 

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I am getting low 8s from my tap water, higher than I would like. Neutral would be nice.

But how about just the DI unit itself, can you do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would double check that with another kit. I have not heard of pH that high in Vancouver. Regardless, to answer your question, DI alone will also lower your pH. In my experience, there is too much turbidity in the tap water for RO to work effectively long term. The membrane will clog much faster than most cities. We stopped using RO in store and use strictly mechanical and DI.
 

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OK, just retested and got 7.8 ish, what is the current "norm"?. So you are running pleated filters for mechanical filtration?

Turbidity should also be a thing of the past now that SCFP is on-line and we now have filtered water.
 

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Not Ian. He has not been with the company since November. Maybe Rick? Garner? Regardless glad to hear!
Humm.. i asked his name twice.. guess i might be wrong.. i am chinese =) he should of just told me his chinese name LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK, just retested and got 7.8 ish, what is the current "norm"?. So you are running pleated filters for mechanical filtration?

Turbidity should also be a thing of the past now that SCFP is on-line and we now have filtered water.
Yes we are running a prefilter. When I throw them out they look like mud. I would say that SCFP is not working. time will tell. 7.8 is still unusual, what is the hardness out of your tap?
 

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Yes we are running a prefilter. When I throw them out they look like mud. I would say that SCFP is not working. time will tell. 7.8 is still unusual, what is the hardness out of your tap?
My tap water Ph is also 7.8 measured with electronic Ph meter.
GH hardness is about 1GH (15-17 TDS)

Would you recomend rasing KH with Baking Soda?
and rasing GH with RO Right?

thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Do you think that Seachem Equilibrium is sufficient? Or is Sera K also needed? What about if using Island Pets water conditioner?
Equilibrium will raise GH, that product is designed for planted aquariums in particular. Sera K is pottasium or KH booster? Sorry, I have not carried Sera forever.... If you are using IPU water conditioner, there is a very small amount of buffer added. Not too much for people adding with hard water in select areas.
 
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